A dripping faucet is one of the most annoying sounds in a home, and it is also quietly wasting water and money on your utility bill. The good news is that you do not need to call a plumber or spend a fortune on a new fixture. In most cases, you can fix the problem yourself for about five dollars and about thirty minutes of your time.
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Here is the honest breakdown: almost all leaky faucets are caused by a worn-out rubber part inside the handle. Replacing that tiny part is simple, cheap, and requires only basic tools you probably already own.
If this helped, you'll also want to read How to Fix a Loose Cabinet Hinge for Under $5, How to Build a Basic Tool Kit for Under $60 (12 Essentials) and How Much Does It Cost to Build a Basic Home Tool Kit?.
Identify Your Faucet Type Before You Buy Anything
Before you spend a single dollar, you need to know what kind of faucet you have. There are two main types, and they require different replacement parts.
Compression faucets are the older style with two separate handles for hot and cold. They use a rubber washer that gets compressed against a valve seat. When that washer wears out, you get a drip.
Cartridge faucets are the modern standard. They usually have a single handle that moves side to side or up and down. Inside the handle is a plastic or brass cartridge that controls the water flow. These leak when the O-rings or seals on the cartridge dry out or crack.
Here is a quick way to tell them apart:
| Feature | Compression Faucet | Cartridge Faucet |
|---|---|---|
| Handles | Two separate handles | One handle (usually) |
| Internal part | Rubber washer | Plastic or brass cartridge |
| Common failure | Washer wears out | O-rings wear out |
If you are not sure, take a photo of the faucet before you go to the store. A hardware store employee can usually identify it from a picture.
Gather the Right Tools and Parts
You do not need a fancy plumbing kit. For most repairs, you will need:
- An adjustable wrench
- A flathead screwdriver
- A Phillips-head screwdriver
- Plumber’s grease (silicone-based)
- A small towel or rag
For the parts, do not buy a generic "one-size-fits-all" kit. Instead, look for a brand-specific replacement. The two most common brands are Delta and Moen, but you may have a Pfister, Kohler, or American Standard.
For a compression faucet, you need a new rubber washer and possibly a new seat. Washers cost about a dollar. For a cartridge faucet, you need a new cartridge. They cost anywhere from five to fifteen dollars depending on the brand.
If you have a Delta faucet, a universal replacement like the Danco Universal Cartridge is a solid choice for many models. For Moen, the Moen 1222 Cartridge is the standard replacement for most two-handle models.
Step 1: Shut Off the Water Supply
This is the most important step. Do not skip it. Under your sink, you will see two small valves where the water lines connect to the faucet. Turn both of them clockwise until they are fully closed.
After you turn them off, open the faucet handle to release any remaining water pressure. This also drains the lines and prevents a mess when you start taking things apart.
Step 2: Remove the Handle and the Cap
Look closely at the base of the handle. There is usually a small cap or a decorative button covering a screw. Pry it off gently with a flathead screwdriver. Be careful not to scratch the finish.
Under that cap, you will see a screw. Remove it with the appropriate screwdriver. Once the screw is out, the handle should pull straight off. If it is stuck, wiggle it gently from side to side while pulling upward. Do not yank it hard, as you might break the plastic base.
Step 3: Take Out the Cartridge or Washer
This is where the repair diverges based on your faucet type.
For a cartridge faucet: You will see the cartridge sticking up from the faucet body. It is usually held in place by a metal retaining clip or a large nut. Remove the clip or nut with your wrench. Then, pull the cartridge straight up. It may be tight. If it is stuck, you can use a pair of pliers to grip the cartridge and twist it slightly while pulling.
For a compression faucet: You will see a large brass nut holding the valve stem in place. Use your adjustable wrench to loosen and remove this nut. Then, pull the stem out. At the bottom of the stem, you will find the rubber washer held in place by a small brass screw. Remove that screw and the old washer.
Step 4: Replace the Worn-Out Part
Take the old cartridge or washer to the hardware store with you if you can. Matching the exact part is critical. If you cannot bring the part, write down the brand name and model number from the faucet body.
Before installing the new part, apply a thin layer of plumber’s grease to the O-rings on the new cartridge. This helps them slide in easily and prevents them from drying out again. Do not use petroleum jelly or regular grease, as it can break down the rubber.
For a washer, just screw the new one onto the stem. Make sure it sits flat and snug.
Step 5: Reassemble in Reverse Order
Put everything back together the same way you took it apart. Tighten the retaining nut or clip firmly, but do not overtighten. You want it snug enough to prevent movement, but not so tight that you crack the plastic or strip the threads.
Replace the handle and the screw. Snap the decorative cap back into place.
Step 6: Turn the Water Back On
Turn the shut-off valves under the sink counterclockwise to open them. Do this slowly. Then, turn the faucet on and let it run for a few seconds to clear any air.
Check for leaks around the base of the handle and under the sink. If you see a small drip, tighten the retaining nut slightly. If it still leaks, you may need to double-check that the cartridge is seated properly.
When the $5 Fix Is Not Enough
Sometimes, the problem is not the washer or the cartridge. If you replaced the part and the faucet still drips, the issue could be the valve seat inside the faucet body. Over time, mineral deposits can corrode the seat, creating a rough surface that ruins new washers quickly.
You can buy a seat wrench for about eight dollars and a replacement seat for a few dollars. This is still a cheap fix, but it is a bit more involved. If you are not comfortable with this, you can use a seat dresser tool to smooth out the old seat instead of replacing it.
Another sign that the $5 fix will not work is if the faucet body itself is cracked or severely corroded. In that case, you are looking at replacing the entire faucet. That is a bigger job, but a basic new faucet costs around forty dollars, which is still cheaper than a plumber’s visit.
The Bottom Line
A leaky faucet is rarely a sign of a major plumbing problem. In nine out of ten cases, it is just a worn rubber part. By spending a few dollars on the correct replacement and following these steps, you can fix it yourself in under an hour.
You will save money on your water bill, stop the annoying drip, and avoid a costly service call. Take your time, turn off the water, and do not be afraid to ask a hardware store employee for help matching the part. This is one of the easiest home repairs you can do, and the savings add up with every drop you stop.
Frequently Asked Questions
How can I tell whether my faucet is a compression or cartridge type?
Compression faucets have two separate handles for hot and cold and rely on a rubber washer pressed against a valve seat, which is the part that wears out. Cartridge faucets typically have a single handle and use a plastic or brass cartridge inside, where dried or cracked O-rings and seals cause the drip. If you cannot tell which you have, a photo of the faucet is usually enough for a hardware store employee to identify it.
What parts and tools do I need, and what will they cost?
The job calls for an adjustable wrench, flathead and Phillips-head screwdrivers, silicone-based plumber's grease, and a towel. A new rubber washer runs about a dollar, while a replacement cartridge costs anywhere from five to fifteen dollars depending on the brand. Brand-specific parts are the better choice over a generic one-size-fits-all kit, and common names to look for include Delta, Moen, Pfister, Kohler, and American Standard.
What if replacing the washer or cartridge does not stop the drip?
The valve seat inside the faucet body may be the culprit, since mineral deposits can corrode it into a rough surface that quickly ruins new washers. A seat wrench costs about eight dollars and a replacement seat a few dollars, or a seat dresser tool can smooth the old seat instead of replacing it. If the faucet body is cracked or badly corroded, the whole fixture needs replacing, and a basic new faucet runs around forty dollars.
